Mukteshwar

Besides fruit orchards, Mukteshwar’s claim to fame lies with the Indian Veterinary Research Institute (IVRI) and some eerie rock formations that have now attained mythic overtones. The Shivling in the 350-year-old temple situated at a dizzying height of more than 7500 feet was purported to be one from where one could attain moksha or mukti. Hordes of devotees throng this holy site on Shiv Ratri.

The secretive IVRI does not permit any visitors to view the old buildings from the British era. Are they conducting research on bacteriological warfare? The facility was originally known as the Imperial Bacteriologial Laboratory and later renamed the Cattle Plague Commission in 1893. So under the guise of the present Foot and Mouth Disease, biological warfare germs may be getting incubated (tongue-in-cheek!).

Any resemblance to the hood of a cobra?

There is huge triangular rock outcropping from which the bottom part has sheared off and the remainder gives the appearance of the hood of a cobra, hence it is known as नाग फनी and is a manifestation of Shiva. As you walk along the bridle path littered with the detritus of tourists – liquor bottles, plastic bags and bottles, disposable diapers, excreta and other unmentionables – you come upon a truly inspiring natural rock formation. 

Vertiginous and your knees turn to jelly

Jutting out vertiginously and shaped by wind and water, it is indeed a spectacle. It is not for the faint-hearted to approach the edge. There is a vertical drop of five thousand feet and the wind funnels up and can easily dislodge the unwary. There is an aperture of about 2 feet in diameter that is a natural formation (although there are all sorts of legends attached to its provenance).

IVF Centre a la Nature

It is claimed that if an infertile lady summons up the courage to pass through that orifice (especially on a Shiv Ratri), she will be blessed with a child. What I cannot fathom is why the husband should not go through that frightening ordeal. The hole is just over the precipice and the sheer rock offers barely a toe-hold for the intrepid mother-to-be.

Another cause for wonder (is it divine intervention?) is that there have been no reported falls over the cliff of present day selfie-taking couples. On a flippant note, I suppose that the reckless selfie business itself blesses them with the child!

For those who scoff at all this mumbo-jumbo, just enjoy nature's bounty in the form of these hoary old deodars.

Even the most cynical tourist will relent as he/she walks through the lush and dark oak forest (preserved from rapacious builders by IVRI).

The invigorating and bracing air will flush out from your lungs all the toxins that have accumulated despite the abortive odd-and-even formula.
A good place to stay is Mountain Trail. Set amidst lush orchards, the quaint cottages offer all modern facilities for a comfortable stay. Further, The food is excellent.