Besides fruit orchards, Mukteshwar’s claim to fame lies with
the Indian Veterinary Research Institute (IVRI) and some eerie rock formations
that have now attained mythic overtones. The Shivling in the 350-year-old
temple situated at a dizzying height of more than 7500 feet was purported to be
one from where one could attain moksha or mukti. Hordes of devotees throng this
holy site on Shiv Ratri.
The secretive IVRI does not permit any visitors to view the
old buildings from the British era. Are they conducting research on bacteriological
warfare? The facility was originally known as the Imperial Bacteriologial
Laboratory and later renamed the Cattle Plague Commission in 1893. So under the
guise of the present Foot and Mouth Disease, biological warfare germs may be
getting incubated (tongue-in-cheek!).
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| Any resemblance to the hood of a cobra? |
There is huge triangular rock outcropping from which the bottom
part has sheared off and the remainder gives the appearance of the hood of a
cobra, hence it is known as नाग फनी and is a manifestation of Shiva. As you walk
along the bridle path littered with the detritus of tourists – liquor bottles,
plastic bags and bottles, disposable diapers, excreta and other unmentionables –
you come upon a truly inspiring natural rock formation.
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| Vertiginous and your knees turn to jelly |
Jutting out vertiginously
and shaped by wind and water, it is indeed a spectacle. It is not for the
faint-hearted to approach the edge. There is a vertical drop of five thousand
feet and the wind funnels up and can easily dislodge the unwary. There is an
aperture of about 2 feet in diameter that is a natural formation (although
there are all sorts of legends attached to its provenance).
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| IVF Centre a la Nature |
It is claimed that
if an infertile lady summons up the courage to pass through that orifice (especially
on a Shiv Ratri), she will be blessed with a child. What I cannot fathom is why
the husband should not go through that frightening ordeal. The hole is just
over the precipice and the sheer rock offers barely a toe-hold for the intrepid
mother-to-be.
Another cause for wonder (is it divine intervention?) is that there
have been no reported falls over the cliff of present day selfie-taking couples.
On a flippant note, I suppose that the reckless selfie business itself blesses them with the
child!
For those who scoff at all this mumbo-jumbo, just enjoy nature's bounty in the form of these hoary old deodars.
Even the most cynical tourist will relent as he/she walks through the lush
and dark oak forest (preserved from rapacious builders by IVRI).
The invigorating and bracing air will flush out
from your lungs all the toxins that have accumulated despite the abortive odd-and-even
formula.
A good place to stay is Mountain Trail. Set amidst lush orchards, the quaint cottages offer all modern facilities for a comfortable stay. Further, The food is excellent.
